great, I have the pick set, so I'll order the mirrors....

Thanks for the info.

I had a shift lock problem at about 40k miles on my 2008 coupe. A few times I could not come out of park. I went to accessory mode and was able to start and shift. However, later on I had problems going from drive to park. The shifter would not go past neutral from drive. Couldn't put transmission into park and had to disconnect battery to shut car off. I ended up having to take the center console apart to get access to the shift lock and manually disengage the shift lock. This happened several times after and I ended up having to replace the shifter/shift lock assembly. Works fine now.

My 2005 Sunset Orange Convertible with over 100K on the odometer developed the gear shift lock issue at about 90K miles.  When starting I couldn't move the shift out of park.  I read about a bunch of solutions from "live with it" to several different kinds of mechanical fixes.  One solution has worked for me.  Shut down, then when restarting keep your foot on the brake and keep pressing the start button for a few seconds.  Sometimes I've had to restart a few times but it has always released eventually.

The navigation disk drive and the CD player stopped working around 2010.

Other than that the gas cap warning kept coming on when the car was new.  That entailed having the entire rear removed to get to a sensor at the top of the gas tank.  Warranty covered that one.  The passenger airbag warning keeps popping up every few years.  But it stops on its own.  

And, most annoying is that in one step of the top going up or down I have to reach back and pull on a part of the roof to keep it from rubbing.  I was told that to adjust the mechanism they'd have to take the top completely apart.  I.E. $$$$.

The car is stock except for color matching door handles and the addition of the factory issued front license plate holder after getting a warning from a state trouper.

2006 Convertible. HUD display broke (I understand this is pretty common). A bear to fix on your own. Need to either remove the dash or cut the A/C duct under the instrument panel).

Also, trunk lights don't work. Replaced the bulbs. Can't find a blown fuse. No one seems to know what fuse is controlling the trunk lights. Used a continuity tester/multimeter . No power to the trunk switch connector.

Trunk light issue sounds like the break switch to me.

Thanks for the response. Where is that switch located? Do you mean the switch behind the brake pedal, or is it another switch?

That balky 1st to 2nd shift sounds like the 1st to 4th lockout system that Chevy built in to their manual transmission systems to improve mpg.  There are devices you can buy to install in the wiring harness to bypass this, but my own experience says you can 'outsmart' the system with either of two similar approaches:

1. Linger in 1st a little longer before shifting to 2nd;

2. Accelerate a little harder in 1st before shifting.  In effect, if you reach 50% throttle in 1st, the system believes you are serious about accelerating and will let you hit 2nd.

Try these options before spending money.

Had the same issue with my 2006. As a previous poster did, I bought a "fuse" that installs in the underhood fuse block that disables CAGS. Can't remember where I got it. Also, after adjusting the shifter (easy to do per YouTube), I bought the "Anti-Venom" mod for about $8.00. It is essentially a copper gasket that installs on the rear diff. that takes some of the tension out of the linkage. Another easy fix. Finally,  for my last easy fix, I replaced the clutch return spring with a C5 OEM clutch return spring, which took some of the stiffness out of the clutch take-up. All 3 mods totaled less than $100 and made a significant difference.